Did they get sufficient water last summer? Also if they were just planted the season before they may not have been well enough established in your garden last summer to bloom.
Thanks, all, for the advice. Great pic, Ken - now others can see what I mean when I rave about that flower! An oh the scent!! I'll make sure to water the heck out of them this season luckily they're in an area where I have annuals, so I'll just give the hostas a drink each time I hit the annuals with the hose.
There was a good-sized patch of Hosta plantaginea growing here when I bought the house. It is in partial shade and is very overgrown and crowded. I thinned it out somewhat last Fall, and gave away many pots at the Fall swap. This Spring I plan to dig it all up and spread them out and around, probably give some more away at the next swap and to a neighbor.
There is one smallish clump I transplanted awhile back to total shade under the canopy of a Silver maple and that clump didn't flower until the 2nd year there. Perhaps your plants were recovering from the transplant and getting settled in the new location. Hopefully you'll get blooms next summer! I don't fertilize or irrigate these.
They are slowly spreading. Overall, it seems like a pretty sturdy plant -. I know what you mean about the scent. I am missing my hosta collection sooooo much sniff, sniff. I didn't have a huge collection maybe different hostas in my previous small garden, but they were so wonderful and compliment almost all other plants. I have a problem with deer where I now live, so I haven't spent much on hostas yet.
I will give it another try this spring with Plantskyyd a repellent and if it works I will definitely get H. The fragrance is intoxicating! Sorry I can't help with your question but I just had to reminisce about my former hosta collection I've experimented planting plantaginea in full sun, part sun, part shade, full shade, and dense shade, all in about the same soil conditions without any root competition and they bloomed for me in all cases, just not always the best. Moisture seems to be the key for this plant.
In summers with drought they barely bloomed or didn't bloom at all but in summers with tons of rain they bloomed like crazy. Last summer I watered my largest clumps of plantaginea about every other day and they bloomed like crazy. They are in a spot with a high canopy and lots of late afternoon sunlight and love it. When people report varying results of hostas in sun vs. Plants in sun often don't have to contend with root competition and when it rains they tend to receive all of the rainwater without competing for it.
Plants in the shade often have to deal with root competition plus when it rains lets face it, not all of the drops reach the ground because trees can act like umbrellas. Oh, and Terrene's plant is Hosta 'Royal Standard'. The key differences are smaller but more abundant flowers, the flower buds are lightly blushed lavender at the tips before they open, the flowers flare out more instead of being a large trumpet, darker green leaves, semi-upright growth, and slight corrugation.
Plantaginea will have lighter green leaves, smooth and somewhat shiny, with more of a cascading habit. Personally I think Royal Standard is a more reliable plant because it has more blooms that are open more during the day when you can enjoy them. Plantaginea opens at night and although the flowers are larger there usually aren't as many. The H plantaginea in our garden only flowers if there is a sufficiently long period of sun and warmth in the season.
It definitely sulks in full shade. When applied at the plants base, it slowly releases nutrients to feed the plant. Fertilizer can be applied anytime in the spring before hostas bloom. The earlier the better. If the plant has already come up through the ground, make sure any granular fertilizer is placed in the soil and not on the leaves where it can burn the plant. Although the early spring feeding is important in developing strong blooms and foliage, it is a mid-summer fertilizing that will help hostas rejuvenate their foliage and stay healthy and vibrant into deep fall.
Hostas use up an enormous amount of energy in developing and producing their blooms. And as they complete their bloom cycle, they need to have that energy replaced to keep their foliage bright and strong. As with spring fertilizing, there are a couple of options and methods that work well. Although side dressing with compost will supply some nutrients, it is usually too slow of a process for mid-summer fertilizing. Instead, use either a granular or liquid all-purpose fertilizer to re-supply your plants a more rapid energy dose.
An application of compost tea right after the bloom set is a great way to provide instant power. Then, follow up with a slow release granular application to help plants continue to grow strong. One of the best and easiest ways to keep your hostas healthy and vibrant is by removing the spent bloom spikes as quickly as possible. The majority of hosta plants bloom in late spring to early summer.
As soon as hosta plants have completed their flowering process, cut the bloom stems back to the base of the plant. Hit the Garden Instead of the Gym. Latest Gardening Videos. Planting in Succession Continued. Watch Now About Us Terms of Use Copyright All rights reserved. You might be wondering how this could be. Clausa means closed, which refers to these closed flower buds.
Eventually, the buds just fall off of the plant. Hosta clausa var. Stolonifera is truly non-flowering. Instead, this Hosta spreads by sending out underground runners. These types of Hostas can be difficult to contain. Both the traditional Hosta clausa and var.
Stolonifera are difficult to find at garden centers. I recommend mixing and matching a few different varieties that bloom at different times. Hosta flowers range from white to pink to lavender to violet to purple and everywhere in between.
They may be violet on the outside and white on the inside, white with lavender stripes, or speckled white and purple.
There are hundreds of unique variations.
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